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The Bangkok-Chiang Mai express wouldn’t really classify as one of the world’s great train rides, but it’s a pleasant enough journey. We were constantly warned by Thais that Chiang Mai is cold and that we would need warm clothes. With temperatures of plus 25 degrees in Chiang Mai, the only place we needed warm clothes was inside the train. It being high season, tickets were hard to get and we had to travel on an air conditioned second-class compartment. The reclining chair was comfortable, but the air conditioner, or should we say chiller, was in full blast throughout the overnight trip. The Thai Railway provides travellers just one large towel to be used as a blanket.
The train goes through dry mountainous areas before it reaches Chiang Mai, the second largest city in Thailand. Given the peacefulness of the place, one can easily mistake it for a small town. Chiang Mai turned out to be even friendlier than Bangkok. The only problem with the city was the fact that every other person seemed connected with the travel industry and was trying to sell an “unbelievable” tour. We strongly advise you to shop around to find the best rates as we did.
The best hotels in Chiang Mai are in the walled city, which is very well preserved. A lazy canal flows around the city and at night coloured fountains burst out of them. The bridges into the walled city are also great photo spots. They are laced with all varieties of flowers in a lovely arrangement.
Chiang Mai essentially is the cultural capital of the country. Thai culture is displayed perfectly for the tourist here. It’s easy enough to see a Muay Thai kickboxing match or a dance recital of the Hindu Epic Ramayana in the city. Other activities include rock-climbing, great pubs, nightclubs and of course the flesh trade.
On our first day we took a tuk-tuk (three-wheel motor rickshaw) to see the famous wats, or temples, of Chiang Mai. This city apparently had more wats than Bangkok. The best wats were the massive Chedi Luang, which would have been even more of a masterpiece before an earthquake destroyed it partially, and the Wat Phra Singh, which is a blend of Thai and Burmese styles. The problem with the well-known or Lonely Planet-listed wats is that they have more tourists than locals. It takes away from the religious and spiritual ambience of the places. The best option for those who want to see the “real Thailand” is to just go to any non-famous wat and spend time there. These places are full of spirituality and even if you aren’t Buddhist, you can’t help but be overcome by the serenity of seeing a Thai in deep prayer. The appropriate way of praying in a Thai wat is to kneel and hold a lighted incense stick between the hands.
Chiang Mai comes to life at night and the city rocks until the wee hours of the morning. Like most places in the west, the city has its fair share of Elvis impersonators. Thankfully, fake Elvises aren’t the city’s main attraction. That honour would go to the Yunnanese night market. Locals say that the market was set up by local tribes and Yunnanese traders more than seven hundred years ago. The night bazaar has everything from lamps to antiques to shoes and t-shirts. Bargaining is a must here. We managed to get prices down from 300 to 90 baht. Of course, the less conscious German or Dutch traveller is more likely to pay the asking price. The market is huge and you can end up shopping till you drop.
Just minutes from the night market is the food court, which has an unbelievable variety of cheap, tasty and hygienic food. Our diverse group tried Mongolian, northern and southern Thai, Indian, Japanese and even Vietnamese food. There is a coupon system and a person can even mix and match their dishes, ordering freshly cooked foods. The best thing about Chiang Mai’s food court is the free Thai Dance Show. The Tourism Authority of Thailand knows how to make tourists happy!
After dinner in Chiang Mai definitely means going to a club. The bars and clubs all have live bands. Within half an hour, the bands can transform the place from Thailand into Soho or the Mississippi Delta. Thais might love their King, but their national anthem is definitely Hotel California! Chiang Mai in a nutshell provides a complete entertainment package, but one of the main reasons people visit Chiang Mai is to visit the famous Golden Triangle, which is exactly where we headed the next day.
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Ajay K
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